Sashiko pattern – Hemp Leaf (Asa-no-ha)

A popular pattern in common use

Among the traditional patterns which have been most popular among Japanese over the years, one stands out: Asa-no-ha, or the hemp leaf pattern.

Even the common man with no interest in fabric design or patterns is sure to recognize this shape, although he may not know its name or history. If asked where he had seen it, he would probably find it difficult to respond clearly, conjecturing that “perhaps it was the pattern on the wooden box I has when I was small.” This pattern has become so much a part of everyday life as usually to go unnoticed by Japanese.

There are two popular theories about the origin of this pattern. One school of thought insists that the Asa-no-ha is purely Japanese; the other claims that it was introduced to Japan from India via China. While neither theory can be confirmed, it’s clear that the Asa-no-ha pattern began to figure in Japanese art during the Heian period (794-1192 AD). It was then found on fabric used to clothe images of Buddha and in Buddhist paintings; later it was incorporated into building décor.

To some Japanese craftsmen, the Asa-no-ha’s repeating pattern of spokes radiating from a central white hub presents an impression of light and the radiating power of Buddha. Whether used alone or repeated, however, this is a very useful pattern for those involved in design, as it can be used in varying sizes and with spaces of nearly any size.

Although the Asa-no-ha pattern was originally associated with religious applications, it gained wide acceptance among common people in the Edo  period, when the influence of popular – rather than aristocratic – culture reached its zenith.

Hemp has been cultivated since ancient times. Before the Muromachi period when cotton was first imported as its later popularization in the Edo period, hemp was the most common raw materials for making clothes. The Asa-no-ha gained its name for its resemblance to the leaf of the hemp plant.

As hemp is a strong, fast-growing plant, the Asa-no-ha pattern was traditionally favored for babies’ diapers and bedclothes to reflect the hope that one’s baby would grow as strong as hemp. The Asa-no-ha pattern was also a favorite for “Sashiko” work, since the pattern looked most attractive when displayed on cotton dyed in indigo and sewn in layers.

Have you had any projects made with hemp leaf pattern or any works you’ve seen in this pattern? Would love to see if you have any 🙂

This article is extracted from Sashiko Blue and White Quilt Art of Japan by Kazuko Mende and Reiko Morishige.

Japanese Sashiko Motifs

Indigo and Sashiko

The word “Indigo” in Japanese evokes special feelings – of both fondness and nostalgia – among many Japanese people.

Indigo is actually the name of a plant. First introduced to Japan from ancient Egypt via China at around the 3^rd century A.D., it has been cultivated as a source of dye since then. Cotton dyed in indigo is strong, warm in winter, cool in summer and rarely moth-eaten. Cotton dyed indigo fabric became popular throughout Japan during the Edo period (1603 – 1867). But while the dyed fabric itself needed little care initially, extracting the dye from plant was quite a troublesome and time consuming task. And it took more effort than for other natural dyes to keep indigo in usable condition.

The life cycle of indigo dye is said to resemble that of a human being.

In the beginning, indigo in a pot is pale in color. As it matures, it becomes darker in color until it ends its life as a dye. Like man, indigo is born, grows, matures and ages. In fact, according to a Japanese saying, nursing a pot of indigo is as difficult as bringing up a child. Although today our work is made easier by the existence of chemical dyes colored indigo, the dye extracted from the indigo plant is still highly valued.

The pattern craft called “sashiko” was originally employed to make sturdy, warm work-clothes. In order to clothe their husbands in outfits that were both warm and strong, the wives of farmers and fishermen sewed together two or more pieces of fabric and lovingly adorned them with original designs. These patterns were passed on to later generations and their use eventually spread throughout Japan.

Using such traditional materials as indigo-dyed cloth and through the use of the simple technique of sashiko, we have fashioned artistic works which suit contemporary lifestyle.

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This article is extracted from Sashiko Blue and White Quilt Art of Japan by Kazuko Mende and Reiko Morishige.

Indigo Hand Dyed Fabrics, Care Tips and Handling

Indigo Hand Dyed Fabrics, Care Tips and Handling

Natural indigo hand dyed fabrics will not shrink like machine dyed fabric because it has already gone through water during the dyeing process, so the length won’t change while washing.

No Chemicals are used in dyeing process.

Apart from variation of color in displays (picture taking, computer screen, phone screen etc), Hand dyed fabric has slight color variation from bolt to bolt and from meter to meter. The piece you buy will resemble what is shown here but will be unique and wonderful.

Washing

Generally, natural plant dye is not as strong as synthetic dye to bond into the fiber of fabrics. Even so, natural indigo is one of the stronger dyes among plant dyes.

The experience gained in the dyeing process shows that a stronger reduction in the indigo vat will give a better result in color fastness and a brighter color shade.

As a result, the dyeing artisans have to keep their eyes on the bacteria’s activity and state in the indigo vat to get the fine color and to prevent discoloration of the fabric

After the dye process is done, Fabrics are rinsed gently several times with an Eco friendly textile detergent to remove the indigo which did not bond properly into fibers and to prevent discoloration as little as possible.

However, we recommend our products to be washed by hand with lukewarm water and small amount of detergent to last.

If you want to use a washing machine that’s fine, but please set it at the most gentle and shortest running time mode.

After washing, the fabric should dry outside in a shady place. Tumble dryers are not recommended to because of unnecessary damage and rubbing of the fabric. Please do not use any kind of bleach or stain remover at anytime.

Colors may bleed in during the first few washes: You may wish to soak fabric in water with salt or vinegar for half an hour before the first wash. Always test first !

Indigo-dyed fabrics may lighten over time, just like denim

After handling natural indigo hand dyed fabric, your hands may pick up some excessive dyes. You may want to wash the fabric before use. But in any case, the dye is completely harmless.

Yellowish stains

You may notice some yellowish stains on a new piece of fabric. Don’t worry; the stains will wash out easily, and if you see it, it’s more proof of natural indigo dye too.

You may notice some yellowish stains at the border of Shibori pattern sometimes. That are impurities contained in indigo solution. Usually this can be seen right after the fabric was dyed or when we store it in a closet for a long time. Don’t worry; the stains will wash out easily and should you see it, it’s more proof of the natural indigo dye too.

The Hand dyeing process requires many checks and adjustments. A hook is used to lift the bolt of fabric so no bacteria from hands being introduced into the dye vat to maintain the quality of dye. However this does make small holes on the selvage of the fabric every now and then. This has no impact of the quality of the fabric as the selvage is cut off before use anyway. And again, this is another proof of hand dyed fabric.

Hand dyeing with natural plant dye is an ancient and complicated process. It involves plants being boiled and fermented giving the plant dyed fabric its own unique subtle fragrance.

Finally, would you like to share your experience in using natural indigo dyed fabric with us?

Indigo dyeing and what is being dyed?

NATURAL DYES AND THE ORGANIC INDIGO VAT

Indigo dyeing is a vat dyeing process. To get the dye onto the yarn or the fabric, it is dissolved in water with the help of a reducing agent. Once the yarn or fabric is taken out of the dyeing vat and gets in contact with the atmospheric oxygen, the oxidation process binds the color molecules to the fibers of the yarn during which color of yarn or fabric changes from green / turquoise to blue like magic!

Fabric that is carefully prepared and folded

Instead of hurrying up to dye the fabric, they walk to the fabric, bend down then pick up two corners of fabric with two hands. These all seems too natural and obscure, however after a few more views, a sense of ceremony arises in the scene. A dyeing ceremony. If an artisan respects and takes care of what he/she dyes, he/she would make good preparation in every details to make sure items dyed are of good quality, of good value. What’s to be dyed carries love and care of the artisans, right from the beginning it makes a difference in the result.

Layer by layer

No rush, no haste, give them plenty of time to get into a new environment and accustom to it. This not only eliminates chances of air bubbles being taken into the dye vat as air bubble affects quality of dyeing but also helps each part of fabric take dye evenly and consistently. Fabric needs time to settle into a new place. One dye vat side at the same time, this slow, repetitive and seemingly boring movement gives dye vat time too to accept and embrace fabric that just entered.

There are some subtle but crucial changes happening in dye vat. For example, the more fabric enters into dye vat, the more likely to have fabric touch dye mud on the bottom of dye vat which needs to be avoided otherwise color on fabric would be uneven. So taking notice, taking care of these changes then taking corresponding actions to work with these changes are critical to color on fabric.

The artisan would consider what speed he/she should apply to ensure fabric is off bottom of dye vat. Hence, in the video you see once the last layer of fabric is into dye, he rapidly guides fabric to opposite direction to which it was introduced into vat. This way he “grabs” the first layer that is about to touch bottom of vat. Thoughts and care artisans take at dyeing process bring life and soul to what they dye, to ensure a beautiful indigo fabric is created in the end.

Flowing opportunities

What opportunity? And how? One opportunity is like, hands “flow” as dyes do at same speed and same trajectory. This way hands are static in relation to fabric. Feel the fabric and caress fabric to let all area and corner of fabric open up at its comfort so that dye can be taken on evenly. Another opportunity is using anitia and friction of flowing dye liquid to grab fabric when it’s about to touch bottom of vat. These opportunities pop out during dyeing await you to take or create. Should artisans are not focused or work with fabric and vat, they would just flow by before they even realize.

Light colored dye vat

This will allow enough time for dye to penetrate and settle down on fabric fiber. Though longer time is taken for dyeing but this is not our concern. What we concern about is quality of dyed fabric.

Artisan’s back

It takes approximately 20 min to dye a piece fabric once. Once dyeing gets started, it cannot be paused or stopped until finished. Therefore artisans have to keep same leaning posture for the entire process to ensure each area of fabric picks up dye evenly. Hence persistence is important for dyeing a quality piece of fabric. Our artisans commit to quality products. This commitment is for ourselves, for fabrics we dye and especially for those who use fabrics dyed by us.

Fabric color after first dip is light blue. It’s then dried in the sun. If deeper color is desired more dips are required. Between dips fabric is dried in the sun. So darker colors take longer time to dye. Our darkest color in the range needs up to 10 days to achieve. It’s a process of labor and nature.

So, Indigo dyeing, what is being dyed? The answer may be found in the text or in the dyeing process you experience. Or there might be no answer yet. What’s more important, have you started pondering on this question?

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Courtesy: the article is edited based on materials provided by ShilanIndigo .